Cosmetics and Ayurveda
Ayurveda
Ayurveda is an ancient medical science that originated in India more than 5000 years ago. Ayurveda is a Sanskrit word made up of two words viz., ‘Ayur’ meaning ‘life’ and ‘Veda’ meaning ‘science or knowledge’ thus Ayurveda means “The Science/Knowledge of Life.
Cosmetics
The word ‘cosmetics’ is comes from the Greek word (kosmetikē tekhnē)meaning(technique of dress and ornament. Cosmetics is applied to the skin to cleanse, beautify and change the external appearance of the skin. However cosmetics now has a much broader scope to include not only to change appearance of the facial skin but also of hair and the whole body.
Ayurvedic Cosmetics
Ancient Indian texts like Abhijnana Shakuntalam, Meghadootam and many epics mention the reference to cosmetic products like Tilak, Kajal, Kumkum, Alita and Agaru that were used for cosmetic purposes. TheAryan periodmentions the use of Turmeric, Saffron, Alkanet, Agaru, chlorophyll green from nettle plants, Indigo, Raktachandan, and Chandan for beautification. The use of henna for dyeing the hair in different colors is also mentioned.
Definition of Ayurvedic Cosmetics
Ayurvedic Cosmetics
It is defined as cosmetics that uses actives having Ayurvedic references and are effective in delivering the promised result.
In the current blog I am going to describe the Ayurvedic Cosmetics under four categories as below: -
1) Cosmetics for Skin
2) Cosmetics for Hair
3) Color Cosmetics
4) Cosmetics for the Entire Body
Ayurvedic Cosmetics for Skincare
According to Ayurveda the health of the skin depends on the three dhatus: nutritional fluid (Rasa), blood (Rakta) and muscle (Mamsa). Rasa supports all the body tissues, particularly keeping the skin healthy, Rakta helps detoxify the skin of toxins, while Mamsa provides firmness to the skin.
Thefactors that determine the skin health and youthfulness are:-Moisture balance (Kapha),proper functioning of the metabolic mechanisms of the skin (Pitta) and proper circulation of blood &nutrients to the skin (Vata).
An effective Ayurvedic anti-aging cosmeceutical should provide support to all these three areas. For vata type, skin care products thatnourish and rehydrate the skin should be used. For pitta type, good sunscreensand good facial skin oils should be used. For kapha type, cleansing of skin with gentle exfoliant should be done.
Ayurvedic Cosmetics for the skin mainly revolves around principles of anti-aging activity which comprises of:
a)Age defying activity (Vayasthapana) – These herbs show anti-aging property. Vayasthapana herbs give overall support to the skin by keeping all three doshas in balance. Example is centella asiatica (Gotu-Kola)which shows anti-aging effects by enhances collagen synthesis.
b) Youthful Radiance (Varnya) – These herbs enhances the radiance or bright complexion of the skin.Examples are sandalwood and vetiver.
c) Protection from normal wear and tear (Sandhaniya) – These herbs help toheal and regenerate the skin and thus repair the effects of aging. Example is ‘Sensitive Plant’ that enhances healing and regeneration of the nerves.
d) Deep healing (Vranaropana) – These herbs enhance deeper healing abilities in the skin. Example is Gotu Kola.
e) Enhancing and nurturing (Tvachya) – These herbs support moisture balance and provide overall nourishment to the skin. Examples are Gotu Kola, Silk Cotton Tree, Costus, Rose Petal and Grapefruit extract.
f) Anti-inflammatory (Shothahara) – This group of herbs provide the anti-inflammatory effect, considered important for anti-aging products. Examples areRose petal, Silk Cotton Tree and Aloe Vera.
g) Strengthening the skin's metabolic mechanisms (Tvachagnivardhani) –
These herbs help to enhance the luster of the skin by enhancing the skin's metabolism. Example is Gum resin exudates of Boswellia serrata.
h)Maintaining skin health and retarding aging (Tvagrasayana) –These herbs prevent sickness and aging of the skin. Examples is Phyllanthus emblica -it has properties like rasayana,ajara,ayushprada, Sandhaniya and kantikara.
Some of the herbs which benefit the skin and address the skin imbalances are as below:-
Sesame oil
It is used as a base in many oils in Ayurveda. It contains compounds sesamin and sesamolin which have the potential to be used as anti-oxidant compounds and as a skin moisturizer.
Turmeric
It has an active called Curcumin which helps to make the skin glow.
Neem
Neem leaf infusions have been used to cure skin diseases and are still used to relieve itching, soothe the rashes and clear the inflammatory conditions.
Sandalwood
Sandalwood helps to soothe the skin and heal inflammatory conditions. It also has anti-ageing and rejuvenating effects. It has protective effect on the skin against the harmful effects of pollutants, sun-exposure and dehydration Sandalwood oil and extracts have been used in many light moisturizers.
Tulsi (Holy Basil)
It has soothing and curative actions on the skin and scalp.
Aloevera
It is a powerful moisturizing agent. It also improves the skin's ability to retain moisture and restore the normal acid-alkaline balance. Aloevera is also known to help in cell renewal.
Metals and Gems
Ayurveda also mentioned the use of metals and gems for incorporation in the formulations for skin care, mainly due to their anti0ageing properties. Some of them are gold, diamond, gems and pearls.
Others
The almond, wheatgerm, lavender, jasmine and balsam have been used in emollient nourishing creams. Wheatgerm oil is rich in Vitamin E and helps to protect the tissues from degeneration. Almond is suitable for delicate skin around the eyes and keeps it wrinkles free and dark circles free. These vitamin and mineral rich extracts benefit the skin by increasing blood flow and restoring damaged capillaries. Sunflower oils are known for their sunscreen properties. Such natural sun-filters have been used in sun-block products, along with natural rehydrants and humectants.
Ayurvedic Cosmetics for Hair Care
Hair care is one of the most important areas of concern. There are various Ayurvedic herbs and formulations for problems like falling hair, premature greying, dandruff and hair dryness.
Some of the herbs used for hair care in Ayurvedic Cosmetics are:-
Shikakai (Acacia concinna)
Shikakai has saponins which acts as a mild detergent and is used as a hair shampoo. It also helps in removing dandruff.
Centella asiatica
Centella asiatica has the ability to improve the health of the hair and helps in cases of stress related conditions like alopecia and general hair loss.
Almond oil
Almond Oil increases the length of the hair. It reduces the split ends and reduces the dandruff. It also helps to reduce inflammation in the scalp.
Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri L)
Brahmi reduces the premature greying, reduces hair loss, enhances hair density, increases the shine and reduces the irritation in the scalp.
Coconut oil
Coconut oil enhances the hair growth, reduces the dryness and dandruff and reduces hair damage from the sun. The oil also offers shine and luster to the hair.
Tulsi
Tulsi helps to stop premature greying of the hair. It also strengthens the hair, improves hair growth and reduces the itchiness in the scalp.
Amla (Emblica Officinalis L)
Amla helps to prevent loss of hair, prevents premature greying of the hair, eliminates dandruff, makes the hair follicles stronger and promotes hair growth.
Others
Other herbs like reetha (sapindus trifoliatus), bhringaraj, anantmul (Hemidesmus indicus) have been used in hair-tonics, oils, cleansers and conditioners for hair care. They have been effective in the treatment of dandruff, seborrhoea, alopecia and general hair loss. Various Ayurvedic hair oils (Tailams) containing ingredients like Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba), Argan oil and wheatgerm oil are used as a hair conditioner. Henna along with the herbal extracts of Aegle marmelos, Emblica officinalis, Centella asiatica, arnica, hibiscus etc. are formulated as hair cleansers, tonics, rinses, nourishers etc. These formulations have improved the health of damaged hair, helped to promote hair growth and control dandruff.
Ayurvedic Color Cosmetics
Henna
Henna is used in making hair dye. It is an Ayurvedic herb used in colouring the hair. Henna is also an effective natural hair conditioner. It has the ability of coating each hair shaft, lending strength, body and shine to the hair.
Ghee and other Organic Vegetable Oils and butter
Ghee and other organic vegetables oils and butters are used in lipsticks as they keep the lips moistened all the time. These lipsticks are completely natural and safe. The color used is completely natural like beetroot, curcumin, riboflavin etc. and is safe to use
Kajal
Kajal is an ayurvedic recipe in which the vegetable oil is burnt overnight in a lamp and soot is collected in the morning. This soot is then mixed with ghee and applied to the eyes to protect them from the heat & dust as well as add beauty
Ayurvedic Cosmetics for Body
Turmeric, Red Sandalwood and Myrrh
Soaps formulated using various herbs like turmeric, sandalwood and myrrh are used for lightening the complexion, reducing the pigmentation and protecting the skin.
Neem
Neem Extracts and Oils are used in making antibacterial soap and also can be used as tailam which can be applied to the whole body.
Kokum
Kokum along with almond is used in making body butter which helps to provide intense hydration and helps make the skin soft
Tulsi
Tulsi along with Neem has been used to make body scrub which helps to unclog the pores and removes the dead skin cells to make the body toned and revitalized.
Advantages of Ayurveda in beauty care
1) Ayurvedic preparations are safe to be used unlike its synthetic counterpart.
2) Herbs can work at the cellular level and thus help to improve normal functions.
3) Herbs can promote the capacity to absorb products.
4) Herbs have a powerful and specific healing properties.
5) Ayurvedic cosmetics are biodegradable unlike its synthetic alternatives.
Market Scenario
As per Kuick research data (see the video above),Indian Consumers are looking towards green cosmetics. In the recent years, growth in the beauty market is tilted towards formulations which make use of herbal components and the market share of Ayurvedic products has been increasing gradually. Consumers are increasingly becoming averse to chemicals that are known to cause side effects. On the supply side, companies are engaging in advanced research of plant based actives due to the increasing demand by consumers for the plant based products. The Indian cosmetics industry is providing a wide range of herbal cosmetic products from many players like Forest Essentials, Boutique, Himalaya, VLCC, Dabur etc. The demand for color cosmetics, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle creams are expected rise in future.
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